17 November 2009

Diary of a Juera: La Regresa.

Mexico, you are the boyfriend I never had, the perfect meal, the ideal outfit. We will meet again.




Mexico, where do I begin...
I was amazed and impressed on this trip and by this country. Mexico is so close, yet so many people from the USofA seem to know nothing about it, and I must admit that prior to this trip, I was ignorant of Mexico's mystique as well. I came to find out that it is a land filled with diverse people, cuisine, and geography. From jungle to desert and cosmopolitan to indigenous, Mexico has a lil somethin' for everyone.

I arrived in Mexico with no expectations, no reservations (thx tony!), and no connections. This was the first time that I planned absolutely nothing - no hostels, no bus tickets, no nada. At first, I wasn't impressed or surprised ny MX. Having the the Mission district in SF and a previous trip to de Jefe under my belt, the city streets were nothing unseen. I left Oaxaca after a couple days and embarked on a bus ride to San Cristobal, a small colonial city in the state of Chiapas. I noticed that this city had more... white people than Oaxaca. It was a balance of white, indigenous, and Mexican. I quickly noticed that many of these gringos were not tourists, but residents. I also learned that if Spanish wasn't the language of choice, it was French. (The movie shown on the bus ride from Palenque to San Cristobal was in French with Spanish subtitles, doubly un-comprehendable.)

In the heart of both San Cristobal and Oaxaca, and I imagine most other Mexican cities, there was always a Zocalo, a square in the middle of the city, and near it there was always a church. The only thing that resembles that in SF would be Union Square, but even that is an injustice, because the Zocalo acted as a cultural hub or meeting place for the community. In Oaxaca there was always organized dances and musical performances, and in San Cristobal there was even a talent show in the Zocalo. It was refreshing to see a central area in a city dedicated to community building instead of commercial activity.

If there was one motif of Mexico that was unique to Latin America, it was all the love. The streets of Oaxaca and San Cristobal were filled with couples snuggling where ever there was space. Paired with that, there was an abundance of children and adolescent mothers to be. Kids having kids! This was a town that emphasized the image of family.

Even with San Cristobal's beauty, I was not yet fulfilled. I returned to Oaxaca on the 29th, and the countdown for Dia de los Muertos tick'd away.

-- Day of the Dead was the main catalyst for this trip. Over the past few years I have developed an intimate relationship with the holiday. I really appreciate that it is a celebration of life of those who have past on, instead of the emphasis being on death. The name allows for misinterpretation, a lot of which I encountered on this trip. --

I arrived back in this city, and it seemed different from the two days I had spent in it a week earlier. Maybe it was because I was now comfortable in Mexico, maybe I was changing, maybe not. It had been flooded with tourists and the Zocalo had been transformed into a DotD alter. I began to meet people, tons of people, people from all over the world, people who had been traveling for month's, or had just embarked on a 6-12 month trip. My three week stint became instantly dwarfed.

The rest of my trip was, well, mind blowing. I went on adventures, I met loads of internationals and locals, I developed friendships and memories. I even made a cameo at the beach. The details of the days in Oaxaca and Zipolite are too special to share. I am actually still trying to soak them in.

What I can tell you is that I learned more about myself in those eight days than I have in the past two years. I was inspired by my time in Mexico, by both the people and the land. I left feeling rejuvenated and reborn, yet humbled. At this very moment, I want to return to Mexico like a child needs its mother.

I cannot express how much Mexico meant to me, all I can say is that in the last few days there and the first days back home, I repeatedly threw my face in my hands and shook my head side to side, simply in disbelief and grateful for the experience I had. Hopefully some pictures can act as the words that I cannot articulate.















27 October 2009

Diary of a Juera: Palenque.

My nerves woke me up yesterday, first at 4am, then again at 6:30, my alarm being set for 6:33am. Maybe it was because I was about to embark on a six hour bus ride, or maybe I thought my alarm would fail and I would miss my bus. I arrived at the bus terminal and realized that day light savings time had kicked in, and was an hour early (that has NEVER happened, ask Stella). I beat my abuelita to the terminal, so I waited for her to set up and then enjoied some of her arroz con leche - which always cures a cold morning.

Nothin like enjoying the Mexian country side while the other passengers watch "Bambi II" (en español) followed by "Because of Us" starring Dianne Keaton and Mandy Moore (also en español). Obviously two classics.

I arrived to Palenque at 1pm and had the opposite experience than my arrival to San Cristobal - its fuckin hot! Palenque is a small town that exists only for tourists who venture the ruins, and it shows. El Centro de Palenque looks like an LA sound stage. I felt instantly uneasy. This tension intensified when I reached my room.

Ulitmatley, I checked out the ruins and bought a bus ticket for 11pm back to San Cristobal. Now I sit here, the rain outside, and Im am just happy to be out of the fucking jungle.

Palenque is a town where geckos, or lizards, or whatever, live strong. You know, the cold blooded thing that people got tattoes of in the 1990´s? I feel much better sitting in San Cristobal, where people listen to the Mexican version of the Titanic song.

Conclustion: light weight divas do not belong in the jungle. 86 Palenque forever!

22 October 2009

Diary of a Juera.

I have now been in Oaxaca for two days and two nights. The buildinds here are short and colorful, and their facades range from stone to brick, and well-manicured to crumbling. Oaxaca reminds me of Kyoto - a town in a country that provides ample heritage and culture for its native residents.

I am staying south-west of the Zòcalo, which is like the underbelly of the city. This is the Mission Street of the Mission district, the Ikebukuro of Tokyo; it is where the people, la gente, of the city resides and does business. I ventured into the Mercado 20 de Noviembre where the vendors tried getting my attention by yelling "¡Juera!"***  I wasn´t sure if I should be freaked out or if they were simply just trying to get my attention. So I settled on both.

Oaxaca redefines what street food is. Nothing costs over twenty pesos and the flavors are insane. I just finished scarffing down a tamale, huge, and stuffed full with quesilla, pickled jalepeños, and flores de calabaza. That is, a string-like salty cheese and squash blossoms. Gracìas abuela.

In a couple hours I will depart on a twelve hour bus ride to San Cristobal. I made sure it was only a one way ticket because I might have to fly back -  twelve hours people, twelve.

Until then, later putas. 


***JUERA ***
A White girl, especially a blonde-white-girl. Specifically an American.

20 October 2009

Here I go..

In about 3.5 hours I leave on a jet plane to Mexico City, then I change planes and head to Oaxaca. I shall be in Southern Mexico for three weeks. I promise to return with ample documentation, and for those close to me, tequila.


19 October 2009

Rainin Game in Northern California.

Today had an eerie aura. Storm clouds filled the sky producing different heights, textures, and shades of white, grey and beige, a motif SF clouds don't normally carry. At three in the afternoon it began to pour - sneak attack rainstorm!!!

Of course the infrastructure in this city totally collapes. Watch the clip below - MUNI had to shut down their subway service until the rain stopped, due to excessive flooding.

14 October 2009

Animal Print

I've always been a fan. Here are a couple things to look at:

Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony




Vogue Nippon x COMME des GARCONS




Journal Standard
Not technically animal, but sneaker game is laggin.


Culture Feedbox: A Series.

1. Everything Kanye seems to be getting the ax.



 The Yeezy clothing line Pastelle changed its name once to Past Tell, and has now changed again to simply: 86'd. Supposedly, Kanye will release a clothing line under the name Kanye, but until then, we all must wallow in the world that is Post-Yeezy, or should i say, void of Yeezy.


\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
2. N.E.R.D copies Blake Eyed Peas



A Chick will be joining the line-up. Not a bad route, if it wasn't done already. Hopefully Pharell will choose a better tranny than Will.i.Am. Now we can all wait to see the new and improved N.E.R.D.  in ad's for Best Buy and Target.

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\



3. Obama comes to the Yay Area!



Chaching! He'll be visiting his liberal cash cow and shutting it down! I'm sure downtown will literally be shut down while in the Sco. He'll be hosting a fundraiser at the St. Francis on Thursday. Sure to be a shit show.

13 October 2009

Some websites to consider.






Just found this website (with the help of Giant Mag), and DAMN, these dudes got some flava. These Bronx natives have decided to provide the Buroughes with classy yet urban recommendations for street style.



This chick is kinda takin my thunder, but it's all good. She's bringin the ECO to the streets, and bridges the gap between urban culture and environmental concerns with her Green-networking website: GreenJar. She has also acted as an environmental consultant for Ralph Lauren and Island Def Jam Records, however, I have no idea what that job entails. I'm sure artists on Def Jam are still rollin in SUV's sittin on 22's and have refrigerators full of bottled water and single-serving mac-and-cheese.

The Original: A Series.




Ann Peebles, "I Can't Stand the Rain"





Missy Elliot, "I Can't Stand the Rain (Supa Dupa Fly)"